The Eagle Walk Osttirol

The journey continues through the fascinating landscape of the high Alps from the Johannis Hut towards the Kreuzspitz High Trail, passing lush green meadows and later rocky terrain. Hikers have the option of a "detour" to the top of the Kreuzspitze Peak with its majestic views of the Großvenediger.

Fine hiking and breathtaking views are the reward for a long ascent. The Eagle Walk itself leads to the New Sajat Hut, known as the "castle in the mountains", but it is still quite a way from there to the official end point of this stage: the Eissee Hut.

From Eissee Hut, descend a few metres to get to the signpost of the Venediger High Trail, heading left to the eastern slopes of Timmeltal Valley. The traverse of Hexenkopf Peak’s southwest ridge follows an easy contour; then you will tackle the west ridge of Hoher Eicham Peak.

After a pleasant and almost level first section, get down to business. Climbing steeply, the trail furiously works its way up the west flank of Wunwand, assisted by stone steps and a fixed anchoring system of cables. The trail switchbacks up, traversing a tussock slope on its one-kilometre way to Wunwand’s southwest ridge. In this area, a trail branches off to Wallhornalm Alpine Pasture Hut in Timmeltal Valley; the High Trail, however, continues along a tussock slope south of Wunwand and rounds a minor spur of Wunspitze’s south ridge. Another 30-minute climb takes you to a niche; slightly above the trail divides, running left to Obere Wunalm and right to Untere Wunalm.

The route of the Venediger High Trail runs high above Virgental Valley. The way eases, then climbs again, this time to mount the ridge of Eselsrücken, which is the gateway to Großes Niltal Valley. A sharp little gully has to be descended in 15 switchbacks, below which you go down to a boulder field, crossing rivulets of Nilkees Glacier.

From here, the trail reveals Bonn-Matreier-Hut that is your destination. A well-maintained trail, beautifully crafted with stone steps, brings you to this stately shingle-clad shelter that is renowned for serving hearty specialties, which are perfect to gather new strength after the efforts of the day.  

A section above Bonn-Matreier Hütte (around 8-10 minutes’ walk), at the signposts the route branches off to the right. Proceed across a stony mountain trough and finally get to the rugged buttes of the Kälberscharte (2791 metres).

On both side of the wind gap a staircase and steel cables make the crossing into Kleine Niltal easier, which means you can even tackle the ascent to the higher Galtenscharte relatively problem-free. There is now a steep, challenging descent down to Mailfroßnitzbach, although you have to make up for this 600 metres altitude later on.

The upper section of the route is secured with steel cables, in the middle section a tough, steep snow field is there to tackle, often in the summer too. With a bit of luck and if the route is free of snow, you can proceed right along the trail. Further down the terrain becomes flatter, the descent ends at the bridge across the Mailfroßnitzbach.

About 40 metres below the bridge the trail continues. High above Froßnitztal you now cross the green slopes of the Hohe Achsel from south to north and pass a section of the route which is variety-packed in terms of the scenery it offers. Short sections are secured with steel cables, and you pass numerous little streams. On the so-called shoulder there is a tarn covered in grass and sealed up by a moraine. The Venediger altitude trail links up with the valley trail here. Continue to ‘Badener Hütte’, where you cross moraines which line up closely behind one another and finally the bridge on the Froßnitzbach. There are a few ridges and troughs providing protection for the snow grouse.

You eventually get to the lateral moraines of the Frosnitzkees, bear right here and continue hiking until you reach the destination for this hike, Badener Hütte (2608 metres) on the Großvenediger.

From Badener Hütte (2608 metres, you hike initially via the Venediger altitude trail and the Adlerweg trail (which is also the Badener Weg here) heading north for around an hour up to the Löbbentörl (2770 metres). A few rock-strewn gullies and little gorges are secured with ropes.

Across a short slope you ascend again to the Löbbentörl, where, protected by rocks, there is a cross and a commemorative plaque. From now on the route proceeds steeply uphill. The descent on the north side has short rope sections proceeding down to the rocky grassy ridge and settled snow down to the lateral moraine of the Schlatenkees. You continue to descend on this moraine. At the Untere Keesboden there is a crossing to Alten Prager Hütte (not open for business), where you can also take a detour and head to the fascinating glacier path ‘Innergschlöss’. The Venediger altitude trail passes Salzbodensee (2731 metres), in which the Hoher Zaun and Schwarze Wand are reflected.

To the north of the glacier white Gschlössbaches a path bears sharply east. In the well-managed Venedigerhaus which is close to the glacier (1689 metres) you can have a lovely rest. Along Gschlössbach continue heading out of the valley, between the Alpine pastures from the Inner- and Außergschlöss there is an old rock chapel where you can pause for thought. A more secular stop-off at Berghaus Außergschlöss (1700 metres) is recommended. The valley now spreads out.

From Gschlöss proceed down for around an hour, not even 200 metres to Matreier Tauernhaus (1512 metres), where, after the long, demanding descents of this stage will presumably be a bit easier on your knees. Enjoy a rest here, some delicious regional foods and enjoy a comfortable overnight stay.

It is preferable to start this stage at the car park in the hamlet of Glanz, which then saves you a two hour walk. From Matrei i.O. it is a 20 minute drive to get there (taxi service available on request). All those of you who also want to tackle the first section of this route on foot, can get from Matrei via Hinterburg to the car park on a road which is not much used.

From the car park in Glanz it takes 1 ½ to 2 hours to get to Äußere Steiner Alm and another 2 to 2 ½ hours to get to Sudetendeutschen Hütte. The trail proceeds for the most part through woodland which has ancient larch trees, pass Köfler-Almhütte (a private Alpine inn). In the area around the Ranzeralm you cross the road twice.

Just above Lackner Almhütte a cart track begins which crosses a spring, before heading from east to west through pastures of Edelweiß. Anyone who does not want to hike through the woodland can also head from the car park in Glanz along the forest road at the start of the Edelweiß pastures. After a rocky ledge the path, which has handrails, descends into a light larch forest.

Cross Steinerbach and get to the Alpine lodges in Äußere Steiner Alm (1914 metres), from Äußere Steiner Alm proceed in the flat floor of the Trogtal north-east, heading for the head of the valley. Little larch groves and mighty green schist boulders characterise this romantic route section. At the end of the valley head a goods cable car proceeds to Sudetendeutschen Hütte, in days past iron ore mining sites were located here, which is why this nook in the valley is described as the ‘Schmelzhütte’ (smelting lodge). The path to Sudetendeutschen Hütte proceeds uphill initially close to the Steinerbach, winding in hairpin bends up across sloping meadows, where you have the Nussingkogel to the left and the Bretterwandspitze to the right.

Finally the terrain becomes somewhat flatter with its summits shaped by glaciers and in the nearby area you will find the spacious Sudetendeutschen Hütte (2650 metres), set in the midst of the Granatspitz group.

From Sudetendeutschen Hütte hike past the memorial cross and a little mountain lake which is close to the lodge via a grassy ridge and mossy trough up to the outlet area of the Gradötzkees, where a lake has built up and impressive moraines characterise the landscape.

You finally get to Gradötzsattel (2826 metres), then head down to the Bloipalfen (2684 metres). Continue downhill afterwards via a section of pastureland and gorge-like rock formations. At some 2500 metres altitude the route branches off into Silesiaweg. It is a few minutes‘ walk on the rocky Muntanitzschneid, which provides wonderful views, staying on the Adlerweg trail, bearing right and finally reaching the Muntanitzbach, which is not so easy when there is considerable water flow to tackle – in particular the base. A section above the Ochsenalm area you walk around the ridge of the Muntanitzschneid. The route is very well developed here, in the lower section you walk on a small sharp bend and there is a rocky section.

Continue down across the pasture slopes and head in a northerly direction through a small Swiss stone pine woodland. You eventually come to an information board at the bridge on the Stotzbach which the Loamesbach flows into.

At the route signpost which is a bit further down opt for route 514 A, to Kalser Tauernhaus. Hike now on numerous narrow hairpin bends on the Wilhelm-Ernst trail between alders, ash trees and larch trees, zigzagging into the valley, past the National Park viewing turret, where a waterfall at the Stotzbach swirls down below to the depths via a trough shoulder created by glaciers from the Ice Age.

Finally head to the Dorferbach, to the destination for this stage, the cosy Kalser Tauernhaus (1755 metres). Located in the lower section of the Dorfertal, just a short section beneath the point where the Stotzbach meets the Dorferbach.

From Kalser Tauernhaus the Adlerweg trail continues to the Moaalm, keeping south, through the lovely Dorfertal on a wide Alpine trail which descends slightly. Pass the Kalseralmen on the Rumesoi- and Schönebene. Just after the Bergeralm snack station, at Moaebene route no.

40 bears left via a path which requires surefootedness (‘die Stiege’), up to the Moaalm (1793 metres), just above Kals. Continue down across Moaalmstraße up to the bridge on the Teischnitzbach, where after about 70 metres at a gap in the fence a route signpost shows the way to Teischnitztal. This section is still very original and inspires with its lovely scenery. From there an Alpine trail heads up on the right side of the valley, where larch trees are growing.

There is also a shortened path which crosses the Alpine trail several times. It passes Maurigen Trog (2101 metres), a narrow, 800 metre rocky gorge (2075 metres). At the entrance to the high valley trough of the Teischnitz Ebene (bridge) a signpost shows that the route branches off here heading for Stüdlhütte bearing right into the steep mountain slopes. You soon are looking down to the rushing Teischnitzbach and see the ice towers of the Teischnitzkee flash. There are still a few steep pasture slopes, strips and gullies to tackle, before you finally approach the Stüdlhütte (2802 metres) via rubble and stone boulders. To the south of you you are at the foot of the Großglockner, the corresponding mountain and glacier panorama is superb.

From Stüdlhütte on the Fanotscharte (2802 metres) climb in a northerly direction for five minutes, then bear east at the route signposts for Pfortscharte, Salmhütte, Glorer Hütte, heading south, south-east via route AV 713. This proceeds directly beneath the moraine fields of the Ködnitzkees and way above the so-called ‘Viehböden’ meet the Johann-Stüdl trail (AV 702 B). This initially well-developed trail now heads up through pasture slopes, which are then rope-secured up to the top.

Now into the rubble-strewn corrie, continuing up through the corrie. At the fork in the path in the corrie do not bear right at the rocks, but continue heading for Salmhütte up through the corrie. The path in this section proceeds in short serpentines through rubble and scree, but the subsurface is good. The route proceeds steeply up to the Pfortscharte.

On the other side there is short section in similar terrain heading down, at the fork in the path keep to the signposts for „Glorer Hütte“. From here proceed on the Luckner Weg heading south, on lush, wavy mountain meadows past Obere Glatzsee and after a while you will get to Glorer Hütte at Berger Törl (2651 metres).

In the wide mountain valley, which stands out with its pasture slopes, there are terminal moraines, evidence of earlier glacier activity, which reach the trough and the Glatzbach. After Glorer Hütte the route proceeds parallel to the goods cable car on part of the earthy path and via few smaller streams into the valley down between mountain pastures, where to preserve the natural surroundings you have to keep to the path. The path then finally meets a wide trail which proceeds to the Lucknerhaus, the destination for this stage and the end of the Adlerweg trail in East Tirol! Or a lovely starting point, if you tackle the route from this way.